-One of the most striking things about New Orleans during
Mardi gras, oddly enough, is the attitude of the police. (Okay, lest you be
questioning whether red blood still flows through my veins, there are other
striking things too, noted below, but this one was perhaps the most
surprising). I’ve never seen police so chilled out in my whole life, entirely
unconcerned by the debauchery around them. I spent a while watching them trying
to figure out if this was
a) the fact that nothing surprises them anymore, having seen
all this nonsense thousands of times,
b) part of a brilliantly devised ‘small footprint’ strategy
whereby they let small infractions go and concentrate only on the big stuff, as
the debauchery is important for the city and police antagonism will mostly make
the situation worse, or
c) whether they were in fact wholly nonchalant about crime,
and simply didn’t give a flying @#$%.
It’s probably a little of all three, but I ended up putting
more weight on the latter option than I had initially. Part of this came from hearing
various stories from locals, including seeing a cop in uniform light up a
joint, someone trying to alert police to a man passed out on the side of the
road and receiving a shrug as the official response, and of course the murder
rate of 57 per 100,000 which would make the Republic of New Orleans the second highest murder rate country in the world.
-Related to strategy b) above, New Orleans really reveals
the absurdity of open container and street drinking laws. Who would have
thought that people can actually take a beer from a bar out into the street and
society doesn’t collapse around them. Instead, the focus is on more practical
thing like having all drinks served in plastic cups to minimize the risk of
broken glass. You’d think that this kind of sensible example would catch on
around the western world, but only if you’d never seen the absurd moral panics
that society gets attached to. Giving people a ticket for having a beer in
public is contemptible and unworthy of a free society.
-Having a passing familiarity some of the extant literature
on the subject, there was actually less public nudity at Mardi Gras than I expected.
Which is to say, there was some, but it certainly wasn’t ubiquitous. Never
underestimate the power of good editing to create a very unrepresentative
sample. As well as being more clothed on average, the crowd was also older and blacker
than the literature would suggest. The fact that editing would hide the first
fact is unsurprising, the second fact perhaps more so.
-In the annals of ‘curious facts about male sexual preferences’,
the odd fascination with public nudity is definitely up there. This is put into
sharp relief when you have on Bourbon street multiple strip clubs which will
show you highly attractive fully nude women at a moment’s notice for not very
much money. But instead, during Mardi Gras people seem far more interested in
the possibility of a one second flash from some who isn’t a stripper, and
usually doesn’t have a stripper’s body. Never underestimate the appeal of the illicit,
of seeing what is normally covered up, and overall the aspect of slight
reluctance. Seeing someone get convinced by a crowd to flash appeals to the
male brain in ways that a girl on stage willingly taking off her clothes never
quite captures. Male sexual preference is odd indeed, especially when it comes to strip clubs.
-Mardi Gras attracts a large number of very earnest
Christians out to try to save the souls of revelers. I find these people fascinating.
Say what you will about their beliefs, it takes some serious cojones to stand
in the middle of Bourbon Street carrying a huge cross and yelling about Jesus
to the potentially antagonistic drunks all around you. Most of us never believe
anything with that kind of sincerity (for better or worse).
-The fact that Mardi Gras is associated with the Catholic
traditions around Lent is always hilarious to me. People seem to have taken the
idea of penance and renunciation for Lent and instead transformed it
exclusively into a time-series shift in debauchery while keeping the total
amount either constant, or more likely increasing it in total. Even funnier,
the tradition of increasing sordid behavior before lent stuck around long after
people stopped following the other part of piety and giving up pleasures.
Substitution effects are tricky things.
-Bourbon street is another example like the Vegas strip of
the unusually strong power of network effects. There is very little
architecturally, visually or resource-wise to set apart Bourbon street from
nearby streets. But one of them is packed when the others are nearly deserted.
Truly, people like being around other people.
-I went to the Orpheuscapade Ball, which was awesome. I only
found out about the various balls because one of the girls in our group had
grown up in New Orleans, and knew that this was the thing to do (while the
tourists all go to Bourbon Street). There were thousands of people in black
tie, watching the floats go through the New Orleans convention center. I really
enjoyed seeing the old Southern High Society. You never hear about them much –
I kind of thought the Civil War had routed most of that old tradition, but it
still lingers on. All you hear about the South is the rural white trash side,
but never the rich upper class white side. Especially the Southern society
girls. Smoking hot, rich, conservative – what’s not to love?
-Related to the above, the ball had as its main musical act
a guy who was apparently a big country star. I’ve been in this country more
than a decade now, which is long enough to lull me into the sense that I’ve
pretty much got the hang of the place. And then I’ll hear a country music
concert and get reminded how there’s a huge side of America than I just about
never see. To make matters even stranger, a lot of the country music crowd
would probably vote in a more similar way to me (if I were inclined to vote,
which I’m not) than the people I live around. Though if you broke it down issue
by issue instead of shoe-boxing everyone into one of two parties, the overlap
would certainly become smaller. While the crowd here was a long way from the
standard rural Republican voting set, the enthusiasm of the crowd for a wholly
alien musical genre was a bit of a reminder of the extent of the country that
is essentially invisible when you live in big coastal cities.